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While fresh talent at Chanel and Dior created plenty of noise during the ongoing Paris fashion week, it was the inaugural presentation from the fashion house that truly captivated the press coverage. The event featured a surprise appearance: Meghan Markle, making her first European appearance in a three-year period.

That Saturday night in Paris, the glamour and excitement of Chanel, Dior – along with another high-profile guest – paled in comparison with the overwhelming presence of the Balenciaga presentation.

Meghan added an extra layer of glamour and excitement to the fashion event.

Prior to the event, the general mood surrounding the designer's first show had been rather peaceful. The fashion house is a time-honored label, and Piccioli is widely recognized as a world-leading designer. Furthermore, he is beloved for his reputation as the kindest personality in the business. Many assumed that dramatic fashion statements had departed the brand's identity with the departure of Demna, known for his bold style to a competing brand. However, even the nicest guys pull off unexpected moves, and the presence of a duchess significantly amplified the overall excitement.

Piccioli sees himself as an design visionary, crafting silhouettes that do not contact the body.

Intriguingly, the main idea of what he called his manifesto, as he described it backstage, was women's liberation. His primary reference was the iconic sack dress from 1957, a silhouette that stands away from the body, neither amplifying nor restricting a female form. According to Piccioli that this style was a powerful manifestation of a evolving cultural mood that was starting to transition from the 1950s conservatism towards the liberation of the 1960s. The idea centered on advancement for females. It liberated women from the burden of garments that sit on their body and define them by their shape. The sack dress allowed women to move freely.”

Some of the house's famous designs made an appearance in the presentation, such as this ‘cocoon’ coat.

Apparel with independent structure are central to the identity of Balenciaga. He likened this approach to design to being an master builder: creating structures that avoid direct interaction with the body, while always thinking about the people who will wear and move in them. “Cristóbal Balenciaga was obsessed with the physique and with textiles, and with a third element – the space in between.”

Leading the presentation was a fresh take of the sack dress, elongated to an ankle-skimming hem, paired with long gloves – but also with distinctive eyewear that acted as a direct nod to the bold aesthetic of the brand's recent past.

The designer, who at his current age adorns himself with strings of beads and charms and projects an calm, bohemian vibe, does not view seeing design as a personal rivalry. He states that it is more admirable for fashion artists to acknowledge each other’s skills. Piccioli mentioned that he was hoping for a “reconciliation” between the traditional craftsmanship of the brand, and its more recent streetwear era. Classic designs from the house were prominently featured in the show: a structured coat, this time in a bold green hue, and a trapeze dress in a intense purple color.

The archetype of French-girl chic has become a highly profitable trend. The American designer is an designer from the US, but he masters this style code. He previously worked with a fashion icon during her time leading the brand, and then spent six years developing the classic label into a beacon of wearable style. Currently leading Céline, he is infusing the welcoming philosophy of his previous work to French fashion. He presented trench coats, natural accessories, and silk scarves used as accents – all the classic elements of French-girl chic – presented in bright hues, with an upbeat American tone. The brand is welcoming, or a brand that wants to exclude people,” the designer explained after the show. The goal is for everyone feels desirable in Celine. When you wear this brand, you may not have the wildest design, but you have the best coat, and you have the confidence to wear it.”